Crystallum Wines Crystallum The Agnes Chardonnay 2021 750ml

Lightly chalky in texture, with crisp and refreshing acidity, this bright white shows poise and fine knit, layering a subtle vein of sweet smoke with fresh-cut apple and pear fruit, hazelnut and honeysuckle notes. Long, creamy finish. Drink now through 2028. 120 cases imported. (Alison Napjus)

We began with a wine from South Africa, one of the Cape’s finest exponents of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2021 Chardonnay The Agnes from Crystallum is tight and minerally on the nose, sharp and stony to the point where it can easily deceive you into thinking it comes from far cooler climes. The palate is fresh and tensile, almost steely, slightly malic in style with a penetrating finish that enlivens the senses. Peter-Allan Finlayson has crafted a wonderful wine; this is a minimalist take on a ubiquitous grape variety that is irresistible. (Neal Martin)