Ruinart Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blanc Brut 2010 750ml

The 2010 Dom Ruinart is truly epic. It’s also an eye-opening wine. And I do mean wine. Because the first impression is really of wine more than Champagne. The 2010 signals a major shift in philosophy, as Dom Ruinart is now aged entirely under cork (rather than crown seal) as it was back in the early 1960s. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks and white pepper all race across the palate, announcing a Champagne of stature, breed and pure class. All the elements build as the 2010 crescendos into its intensely saline, mineral-drenched finish. The low dosage of 4 grams per liter is perfectly judged. I try to avoid the tired clichés that make comparisons with Burgundy, but it is impossible here. The best way I can describe the 2010 Dom Ruinart is that it tastes like a great Corton-Charlemagne with bubbles. Chef de Caves Frédéric Panaïotis has poured his heart and soul into Ruinart since arriving in 2007. He richly deserves all the accolades he will surely garner for this masterpiece, an achievement that is made all the more notable by the challenges of the growing season. The 2010 Dom Ruinart is unreal. That’s all there is to it. Disgorged: 2020.

A mineral-driven Champagne, creamy and compact, this deftly meshes a layer of smoke, chalk and saline with detailed flavors of glazed apple and apricot, roasted hazelnut and ginger-infused pastry cream carried on a raw silky mousse. The fine texture softens the firm spine of chiseled acidity that structures the wine, and hints of white blossoms, Meyer lemon and oyster shell play on the finish. Disgorged November 2020. Drink now through 2035. (Alison Napjus)

This is certainly a mature Champagne. With its ripe character, the dryness has softened to give richness, a beautiful nutty flavor while retaining acidity. A very fine Champagne, it is ready to drink now. (Roger Voss)

Almost like a white, with a smoky and flinty nose. Dried lemons, cedar, smoked almonds, spiced apples, hazelnuts, salted butter and toast. Tangy and sharp, yet creamy and buttery, too, with fine bubbles. Hazelnuts at the end. Disgorged in February 2021. Drink or hold.

The first vintage since the 1960s to see tirage under natural cork in lieu of crown caps, the 2010 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in November 2021. It’s showing nicely, over-performing for the vintage, displaying aromas of yellow orchard fruit, toasted nuts, spices, smoke, dried white flowers and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and layered, with impressive concentration and chalky structure, it concludes with a long, saline finish. (William Kelley)