Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2023 750ml

In spite of its extreme youth, this great Chateuneuf-du-Pape leaps out at you with its depth of wet-earth, ripe red-berry and dried-flower aromas. Rich and concentrated, but so suave and refined. Incredible length! Already delicous, but this has a great future ahead of it. Drink or hold.

A classic blend (yet with a touch more Mourvèdre due to tiny yields), the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape is based on 65% Grenache, 15% each Syrah and Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault and other varieties, aged 20-22 months in 60-hectoliter French oak foudres. A gorgeous wine, it shows the ultra-classic style of this domaine perfectly with ripe red and black berries, peppery garrigue, flowers, and an undeniably mineral character. Medium to full-bodied, with a fresh, focused mouthfeel, ripe and building tannins, and outstanding length, it offers pleasure today yet will benefit from 4-6 years of bottle age and keep for 20-30 years if you're so inclined. Drink 2029-2055.

A structured version, with muscular tannins upholding crunchy red fruit and plum, plus an enticing perfume of smoke and flowers. Graphite underpinnings carry this through the full-bodied finish, which is still tightly wound; give this time to unfurl and you will be rewarded. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2027 through 2040. 2,113 cases imported.

The Grand Vin from this great estate, the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape reveals a semi-opaque ruby hue to go with a classic style in its ripe red and black berry fruits, peppery garrigue, leather, earth, black olive, and baking spice-driven aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, and balanced, with fine tannins, it’s a beautiful wine in the vintage that should have 15 years of longevity. (Jeb Dunnuck)

The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a solid effort from the Brunier family. The 2021 La Crau unfurls in the glass with a fragrant perfume of crushed violets, lavender, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs, mint and a dash of white pepper. It is full-bodied and layered, showing a refined profile marked by soft tannins and lively acids. Not as powerful as either the 2020 or 2019, but the 2021 is certainly the most elegant rendition among them.