Gérard Boulay Gérard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse 2023 750ml

The 2023 Comtesse was sourced from vines planted before World War II on the lower section of the famed Monts Damnés slope. It's all ripe lemons, honey and chalkiness. This smells and tastes like you're licking a stone warmed by the sun, plus there's a hint of smokiness and white pepper to boot. It's light in body, but there's no shortage of firmness and strictness here. This needs time to develop breadth on the palate. (Rebecca Gibb MW)

The 2022 Comtesse is a mid-weight Sancerre with rich, ripe fruit and a savory autolysis-derived character that comes from spending a year on lees in barrel. It has some chew to it. A chalky finish will leave you licking your lips, such is its texture. (Rebecca Gibb MW)