Giacomo Fenocchio Giacomo Fenocchio Villero Barolo 2021 750ml

"#70 Top 100 Wines of 2025: Dark aromas of graphite, potpourri, smoke, bergamot and dried cherries. Firm tannins on the palate, with a full body, a dusty texture, refreshing acidity and a powerful finish. Extracted, meaty, concentrated and balanced for the long haul, with an amazing minty aftertaste. Try from 2027."

The 2021 Barolo Villero is laced with spice, new leather, herbs, menthol and licorice. It exudes depth, structure and classicism, with plenty of the balsamic inflections that are such signatures of Villero. I admire the wine's virile intensity and overall power. This is a superb showing.

"My top pick from this estate in 2021, the Villero bottling is crafted from 65-year-old vines. The southwest-facing plot is characterised by calcareous clay rich in iron, which typically gives solidly structured wines. The house™s confidently extracted style accentuates this but is so well honed that the wine remains in brilliant balance. It is as expressive as it is textured: entrancing aromas convey smoke, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and a burst of violet. While tight and vertical to begin with, a mouthful of stoniness makes way for a richness of dark fruit through the mid-palate, all hemmed in by sophisticated, grainy tannins while sappy acidity lends a cleansing quality."

A similar bright red with orange highlights, the 2021 Barolo Villero has a fabulous floral and layered nose of fresh blood orange, bright red berries, cinnamon, clove, mint, and cedar incense. The palate is linear and medium-bodied, with refined tannins, refreshing ripe acidity, and a gently tapering finish. It had a more delicate feel on the palate at this tasting, yet I anticipate this being a lovely wine to check in on over the coming 10-15 years.

"A lean, sinewy red, this nevertheless offers plenty of cherry, currant, tar and eucalyptus flavors within its slim profile. Chalky tannins lend support and leave a tactile sensation on the finish. Feels a bit closed now, so be patient. Best from 2030 through 2047."B.S."