Horsepower Vineyards Horsepower Syrah High Contrast Vineyard 2017 750ml

From a vineyard planted in 2013, the 2016 Syrah High Contrast saw loads of stems and mostly neutral barrels. This thrilling wine has a Chave Hermitage-like purity and class as well as gorgeous notes of cassis, black raspberries, smoked earth, and graphite. It’s deep, pure and layered, incredibly layered, pure, and long, with a finish that won’t quit. This isn’t for those looking for an inky, massive wine, but it’s pure class, complete, amazingly long, and elegant. Give bottles a few years in the cellar and it’s going to shine for 15–20 years. (Jeb Dunnuck)

Last of the Syrahs, the 2018 Syrah High Contrast Vineyard reveals a deep ruby/purple color as well as a wonderfully complex, classic Syrah nose of red and black fruits, cured meats, mushrooms, bacon fat, iron, and forest floor, with a touch of flowers emerging with time in the glass. With its medium to full-bodied richness, firm, focusing tannins, and great finish, it’s another wine that takes savoriness to the nth degree. I love its texture, and there’s almost a Burgundian style here that keeps you coming back to the glass. Hide bottles for 4–5 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

The aromas explode from the glass, with notes of fire pit, potpourri, black olive, wet stone, dried porcini and stone. The palate is sumptuous, layered, elegant and intensely flavorful, showing abundant savory notes. A lingering black olive and earthy finish caps it off. Best after 2025. (Sean P. Sullivan)

The 2016 Syrah High Contrast Vineyard initially wafts from the glass with a rocky dustiness, then reveals an elegant black and red-fruited core of aromas, oozing with seductively bright and focused black raspberry notes, followed by red and purple flowers, a line of stemminess and dried herbs de Provence on the lifted and aromatically complex nose. Medium-bodied on the palate, the wine is ethereal at first, then compounds in the mouth with a mineral tension, the fruit turning a touch tarter across the mid-palate, showing incredible precision and balance. The wine continues to evolve with a fantastic expression and long, drawn-out finish for this young vineyard that was just planted in 2013. Only 335 cases were produced. If you can afford it and you can find it, buy it! (Anthony Mueller)

Showing with a deep ruby core that fades to a purple edge, the 2017 Syrah High Contrast Vineyard explodes from the glass with pronounced smoky aromas that waft with delicate notes of dark chocolate-covered blackberries, then show hints of roasted coffee bean, notions of petrichor, baked earth and dried herbs. Medium to full-bodied, the wine is elegantly powerful, showcasing a balanced chassis of youthful tannins that evolve with the complex nature of the wine. There is a velvety firmness to the mid-palate before moving onto an elongated finish that grows in complexity and amplitude as the expression resonates harmoniously, confirming yet another blockbuster Syrah from the ever-so-talented Christophe Baron. Only 386 cases made.

Aromas of brambleberries and wet earth with some smoke and green cloves. Full body, round and succulent tannins and a juicy, earthy aftertaste. Savory. Delicious now or hold.

The 2017 Syrah High Contrast Vineyard is more wound up and tight, with backward notes of chocolaty black fruits, toasted spice, mulled plums, cured ham, and sweet mulch all developing with time in the glass. Full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with plenty of tannins, this is one 2017 that’s going to reward bottle age. Do your best to hide bottles for 4–5 years if possible, and it should see its 20th birthday in fine form. This is certainly for those who like a big dose of funk in their Syrah!

Bright ruby-red, the darkest of these Horsepower bottlings. Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, menthol, bitter chocolate, crushed rock, violet and licorice are more Hermitage than Côte-Rôtie. At once dense and lively, conveying more energy and black fruit intensity than the Sur Echalas Syrah. Boasts lovely inner-mouth verve and definition for such a rich wine, and a captivating balance of sweetness and acidity. Also purer and sweeter than the Sur Echalas, with more subtle salty and balsamic tones. Finishes firmly tannic, ripe and very long, with complicating hints of violet and black olive. I particularly like this wine’s balance of acidity and sweetness. It has the spine to evolve positively in bottle but its subtle sweetness gives it early appeal. Incidentally, the Horsepower wines are fermented in concrete tanks and aged in neutral demi-muids and foudres, with this bottling getting some second-fill demi-muids. (Stephen Tanzer)

A vivid expression, elegantly but deeply structured, with bold blueberry, black olive, smoky meat and garrigue notes that build tension toward defined tannins. Drink now through 2028. 386 cases made. (Tim Fish)

Elegantly dynamic, with floral raspberry, garrigue and peppered beef flavors that dance along the finish toward plush and polished tannins. Drink now through 2026. 335 cases made. (Tim Fish)

Fresh dark red. Complex scents of dark raspberry, boysenberry, musky herbs, dark chocolate, brown sugar and flinty minerality. Quite dense, thick and deep, particularly for very young vines, conveying a strong saline character to its flavors of black raspberry, cherry liqueur and minerals. This large-scaled, mouthfilling wine finishes ripely tannic and long, with a late note of chocolate-covered cherry. Ultimately a bit salty for my taste (the pH is a very high 4.1) but there’s plenty of fruit too. Incidentally, Christophe Baron bought a total of 18 acres with his general manager Trevor Dorland. While all of the acreage technically lies within The Rocks, only half of it features the round stones typical of this district, according to Dorland. (Stephen Tanzer)