Charles Smith Wines K Syrah The Hustler 2012 750ml

This is a unicorn wine that only gets made in exceptional years—the last time was a decade ago. Hailing from Morrison Lane, the oldest Syrah plantings in the valley, it brings mesmerizing aromas of blackberry, black fruit, moist earth and wet stone. The black-fruit flavors consume the palate, showing density, depth and exceptional length. It’s a complete heart-stopper. (Sean P. Sullivan)

Still in barrel at the time of this tasting, the 2012 Syrah The Hustler is a blockbuster-styled Syrah that’s overflowing with notions of sweet red and black fruits, toasted bread, cured meats and cedar. Only made in special vintages (it was previously made in ’03, ’07 and ’09) and aged 38 months in French oak, it’s full-bodied, decadent and layered, with a weightless, elegant, seamless feel. Coming all from the Morrison Lane Vineyard (it’s actually the Morrison Lane Syrah with extended barrel aging), it should be ready to go on release and dish out tons of pleasure over the following decade or more. The extended elevage has given this a more upfront feel, yet I suspect it will also allow it age more slowly as well.

Has presence, featuring a smoky edge to blueberry and black cherry flavors that spill around the stony notes on the finish. Comes together with intensity and harmony. Best from 2017 through 2022. 143 cases made. (Harvey Steinman)