Kaldéra Khaos Wines Kaldéra 2021 750ml

The 2021 Kaldéra Assyrtiko also has 5% Athiri blended in. It is dry, unoaked and comes in at 13.2% alcohol. The juice for this wine (from a private label of the importer) comes from Karamolegos winery and old vines (60 years or so). This is a solid Assyrtiko, on the smaller side in demeanor and ripeness, but fresh, pure and focused. It doesn’t show great expressiveness for the grape, but the steel and tension are admirable. There is adequate concentration, but this is an Assyrtiko that is driven by its structure more than its fruit. The relatively low alcohol is a nice bonus. This may well hold well for a few years, but that’s not clear. Let’s be a little conservative on all fronts until this screw-capped white demonstrates that it can not only hold but develop a little. Most won’t bother to hold it, though, as it drinks nicely now. It will be especially refreshing in warm weather. For what is left of warm weather in many places, it will go down easy now, or certainly be very fine next summer. (Mark Squires)