La Jota Vineyard Co. La Jota Vineyard Co. W.S. Keyes Vineyard Merlot 2018 750ml

The violet, blackberry and black-olive aromas are abundant. Full-bodied and superb, with great character and powerful tannins. It’s a block of tannins with wonderful fruit. Only about 500 cases made. Unique merlot. Give it time to come together. Best after 2024.

Composed of 84.5% Merlot and 15.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 W.S. Keyes Merlot was aged for 22 months in oak, 79% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it charges out of the gate with intoxicating scents of black cherry compote, plum preserves, baked raspberries and spice cake with hints of potpourri, star anise and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, the taut, crunchy black and blue fruit layers are supported by tightly knit, very fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length and depth. The super ripe tannins and showy fruit mean it is approachable now, but I’d leave it a couple of years for the flavors to start to fan out. It should easily cellar for 20–25+ years. 476 cases were made.

Coming from a single vineyard on Howell Mountain, the 2018 Merlot W.S. Keyes is a blockbuster effort that offers an awesome bouquet of blackcurrants, mulled black cherries, tobacco, graphite, scorched earth, blood orange, and violets. One of the finest examples of the variety in the vintage, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered mid-palate, silky tannins, and a great finish. Reminding me of a great Pomerol with its incredible elegance paired with a building sense of power and depth, this is going to benefit from 5–7 years of bottle age (I’d happily drink a bottle today) and cruise in cold cellars for 20–25 years or more. (Jeb Dunnuck)

The 2018 W.S. Keyes Merlot is going to need a number of years to be at its best. A rush of dark red cherry fruit, cedar, spice, mint, leather, licorice, mocha, new French oak, iron and dried herbs all race out of the glass. Readers will have to be patient with the 2018, as it is still coming together in bottle. The Keyes Merlot is unctuous and rich, but the dominant personality of Howell Mountain simply will not be denied. (Antonio Galloni)