Roger Sabon Le Secret des Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 750ml

The tiny production 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Le Secret Des Sabon is a field blend of mostly Grenache brought up all in wooden tronconique barrels. It’s closest in style to the Prestige Cuvée yet brings another level of opulence and richness without losing any sense of elegance or class. Blackberries, peppery herbs, graphite, crushed violets, and a liquid rock-like minerality all define the nose, and it hits the palate with incredible depth of fruit, full-bodied richness, and ripe yet building tannins. While the acidity is technically quite low (the pH is 3.8), it holds onto an undeniable sense of freshness and purity. It is just a thrilling, magical wine from this estate. While young and unevolved, with 3–5 years of cellaring required, it is a modern-day legend capable of evolving for over two decades. (Jeb Dunnuck)

Gorgeous, with warm ganache and steeped plum aromas enlivened by bright anise and floral hints, leading into a core of raspberry, blackberry and plum fruit that is pure and racy through the lengthy finish. Dense but sleek, showing great cut and drive. Best from 2020 through 2045. 56 cases imported. (James Molesworth)

Juicy, dense and packed, yet remarkably defined, with a mix of plum and racy-edged blackberry, boysenberry and raspberry reduction flavors, all laced with a licorice snap thread. Black tea, garrigue and humus accents underscore the finish as the fruit sails through with aplomb. A beauty. Drink now through 2038. 125 cases made, 42 cases imported. (James Molesworth)

Shimmering ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented black raspberry and cherry liqueur aromas are complemented by incense, licorice and potpourri flourishes. Juicy, sweet and impressively concentrated, offering palate-staining red/blue fruit, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Brawny yet surprisingly lithe as well, showing outstanding clarity and youthfully chewy tannins on the strikingly long, floral and spice-tinged finish. (Josh Raynolds)

The top wine of the estate is the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon, and the inky-colored 2012 is a brilliant effort. I don’t think it hits the heights of the 2010, 2007 or 2001, but it’s still a singular expression of Grenache that could come from nowhere else, and is distinctly different from the three prior Châteauneufs. Possessing a sweet nose of ripe raspberries, kirsch, garrigue and licorice, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, tons of glycerol and texture, sweet tannin and moderate acidity. It’s already approachable, yet I suspect will improve with another handful of years in the cellar and drink well through 2027 at a minimum. (Jeb Dunnuck)

Exuberant blackberry and boysenberry flood the palate in this lush, polished red. Shows impressive density, and though ripe and decadent, this has a refreshing beam of iron and menthol notes that bring balance. Offers baked cherry pie, fruitcake and salty black licorice accents that add interesting detail through the powerful, nicely framed finish. Drink now through 2038. 275 cases made, 42 cases imported. (James Molesworth)

I tasted the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon blind, alongside the other 2016s from this fine estate, and failed to discern a huge difference between it and the impressive Prestige or Reserve bottlings. I don’t doubt that time will prove my rating to be conservative, hence the + sign. Winemaker Didier Négron retained some stems in this cuvée, and they show for the moment in its slightly herbal-minty notes, but they’re balanced by ripe Grenache fruit that suggests apricot and plum. Lavender and thyme join in on the creamy, lush finish of this full-bodied but elegant offering.

Lurid ruby. Ripe red berries, cherry liqueur and hints of musky herbs, vanilla and potpourri on the highly perfumed, mineral-accented nose. Palate-staining Chambord and cherry flavors show excellent clarity, supple texture and a hint of spicecake that builds slowly as the wine opens up. The energetic, seamless, impressively long finish repeats the floral and red fruit notes, while rounded tannins add shape and gentle closing grip. (Josh Raynolds)

A lush, velvety style, with gorgeous flavors of raspberry ganache, plum pâte de fruit and cherry preserves, lined with ample graphite-edged grip and driving authoritatively through a finish studded with licorice snap, black tea and tar notes. Has power, grace and serious length. Impressive. Best from 2016 through 2026. 56 cases imported. (James Molesworth)

Bright ruby. A complex, intensely perfumed bouquet displays scents of black raspberry, cherry-cola, Asian spices and floral oils, with a smoky mineral note emerging with air. Stains the palate with vibrant red and dark berry flavors, with juicy acidity and a jolt of white pepper providing focus and lift. Wonderfully balanced and deep, finishing with serious power and smooth tannins that are quickly absorbed by the wine’s sappy fruit. (Josh Raynolds)

The full-bodied 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon offers up stunning aromas of roses, raspberries, black cherries, pine sap and garrigue. Silky and elegant, it finishes long and mouthwatering. Almost entirely Grenache from a couple of old-vine parcels on sandier sites than the majority of the domaine’s offerings, it’s a beautiful wine by any measure.