Tenuta dell' Ornellaia Masseto 2022 750ml

The 2021 Masseto is a stunner. It also shows how much the estate has evolved in recent years. I was reminded of that recently when I drank the 2001, considered by many observers, including this one, to be one of the greatest wines ever made here. The 2021 represents a move towards a more refined style. There's less of the bombastic intensity and extraction that were once the norm here. The 2021, on the other hand, is an absolute delight. Crushed flowers, spice, blood orange and bright, red-toned fruit all grace the palate. Floral aromatics and saline underpinnings are at times reminiscent of the Cabernet Franc found in the 2019 and 2020, but the 2021 is back to the classic 100% Merlot. Readers will find a Masseto built on linear energy more than volume. The 2021 is quite simply the most exquisite, refined young Masseto I have ever tasted. <br/><br/>

Our entire adult lives are spent trying to reclaim the wonder of our childhood—the enchantment of Disney World, the legend of Santa Claus, the belief in miracles that is slowly eroded with age. Masseto is always a wine that brings back that magic, but Gaia allows you to get up out of your seat and watch her sleight of hand from a nose-length. I dare you to figure out how she does it, and I defy you not to gasp with delight at the reveal. Drink now or hold until you next feel your faith faltering.

Plum and blackberry flavors are wrapped in an embrace of toasty oak, with vanilla, resin and iron accents. Dense tannins coat the gums, while bright acidity keeps this focused and drives the spice-infused aftertaste. Fluid and long, this silky red ultimately is all about finesse. A superb success in a great vintage. Merlot. Best from 2027 through 2047. 440 cases imported.

The 2020 Masseto is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, the 2020 offers up an exciting mix of dark-toned fruit, mocha, spice, leather, tobacco, cedar and a kiss of French oak. Lively acids and Franc aromatics lend vibrancy throughout. The Franc is so evident today. This is exceptionally polished and sophisticated, albeit a touch slender relative to most years. In 2020, Masseto is more finesse than power. (Antonio Galloni)

Blueberries and black olives with violets and hints of sage, as well as rosemary flowers. Full and powerful with lots of fruit and vanilla on the palate. A rich and flavorful red, yet held together beautifully. Muscular and powerful. Needs five or six years to come together. Give it time.

Currently on the market, the 2022 Masseto is 100% Merlot grown on the estate’s distinctive blue clay soils. The wine immediately impresses with freshness, brightness and clarity. It shows firm but integrated tannins with a subtle salty note attributed to sodium-rich clays. According to proprietor Lamberto Frescobaldi, the magic of Masseto lies in its ability to stretch and consolidate across the palate, wrapping itself seamlessly in a kind of symbiosis that feels both expansive and complete. His point comes alive in this edition. Crafted for collectors, this vintage is intense and full yet never tiring, remaining solar and generous. The élevage is deliberately restrained with reduced wood influence despite the use of four coopers, including tonnelleries Taransaud and Baron, and 80% new oak, allowing the Merlot to remain dulcet and precise.

The 2020 Masseto now sees new DNA with a touch of Cabernet Franc added to this celebrated Merlot-based icon wine. This is a vintage of enormous richness and density, and everything about the wine is taken up a notch or two (including the bottle glass weight and the 15% alcohol content). But Axel Heinz and his team are well prepared for the hot vintages like 2020, and changes to farming and canopy management ensure even ripening. This wine is always hard to analyze in its youth. It needs many more years to soften and flesh out. Give it time.

This red is both well-structured and framed with new oak nuances of vanilla, toast and resin, setting the stage for plum, blackberry, fruitcake, mineral and tobacco flavors. There’s a salty element interwoven throughout, along with a fluid feel. Offers fine grip on the lingering finish, so give the dense tannins some time to integrate. Merlot. Best from 2028 through 2043. 410 cases imported.