Moccagatta Moccagatta Barbaresco 2022 750ml

Restrained, slightly low-key wine at the very first sniff, then tantalizing aromas of vibrant orange peel and dried flowers emerge, together with a lot of cinnamon. Full-bodied, showing firm, velvety tannins with the slightly dusty texture that’s typical of nebbiolo. Good weight and density, as well as poise and balance, with a long, refreshing finish. Drinkable now, but with a long life ahead.

The 2019 Barbaresco stands apart, thanks to the pleasantly bold and intact quality of its bouquet that is laced with sweet cherry fruit, candied orange, blue flower, rusty ore and iodine. This unique expression offers an equal measure of sweetness, which is contrasted against savory tones, with impressive precision and balance. I highly recommend this classic Barbaresco from the talented team at Moccagatta. Some 8,000 bottles were released at a reasonable price.

Fruit for this blended wine comes from the villages of Barbaresco (Muncagota and Ronchi) and Neive (Cottà and Basarin). The Moccagatta 2022 Barbaresco makes a lovely powdery first impression with chalky aromas followed by wild cherry, blue flower, licorice and something citrusy like kumquat or pink grapefruit. The alcohol is recorded as 15% in this hot-vintage wine, but that heat is not too powerful. With 12 months of aging in barrique, you get an open-knit texture and grippy tannins. Production is 11,000 bottles.

Very floral with crushed berries and hints of lemon leaf in the nose. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins that are polished and together. Delicate finish. Drink now or hold. (James Suckling)

Vanilla, cinnamon and toast flavors introduce this cherry- and plum-flavored red. Flashes of tobacco and eucalyptus chime in as this plays out on the spicy, sweet fruit finish. Best from 2028 through 2040. 700 cases made, 400 cases imported.

Rich and framed by vanilla and oak spice flavors, this Barbaresco also reveals cherry, earth and menthol notes. The mouthwatering finish is lined with grainy tannins. Best from 2025 through 2039. 500 cases made, 165 cases imported. (Bruce Sanderson)

Moccagatta’s 2019 Barbaresco is racy and expressive, which makes it a good choice for near-term drinking, once the tannins soften a bit. Cinnamon, blood orange and spice add aromatic presence to this bright, supple Barbaresco from vines in Muncagota, Basarin and Cottá. Floral notes leave a closing accent on the taut finish. (Antonio Galloni)