Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines Mullineux Old Vines White 2023 750ml

This is a blend of old-vine Chenin Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Semillon Gris. The Mullineux 2023 Swartland Old Vines White gives you a taste of South African winemaking excellence at a very interesting price. The vines are planted on granite soils with a beautiful layer of clay five meters down "that acts like a sponge," Andrea Mullineax tells me. This helps to concentrate and enrich flavors of preserved lemon, saffron and pastry cream filling. With each variety coming to ripeness at a different time, the grapes are whole-bunch pressed and not co-fermented. The Chenin Blanc, from dry-land bush vines, plays an important role in determining the lasting texture of the wine. It matures in foudre and some barrique, with 10% new oak. (Monica Larner)

Lovely nose of blanched almonds, lemons, chamomile and sliced pears. Crushed stones and seashells too. It’s mineral and very textural, full-bodied, with an almost chalky texture. 62% chenin blanc, 13% clairette blanche, 10% semillon gris, 8% grenache blanc, 5% viognier and 2% verdelho. Drink now or hold.

The 2023 White Old Vines is based on 70-year-old Grenache Blanc vines that lend the wine more texture and density. Fermented mainly in 2,000-liter foudres it was oxidatively handled in the press, encouraged (though not forced) through malo and raised on the lees. This has a complex nose: fresh pear, grilled walnut and light smoky scents, gaining delineation in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a nuanced opening. Hints of mango mix with light citric notes, a keen line of acidity and a lively, peppery finish. Excellent. (Neal Martin)