Parusso Parusso Barolo Perarmando 2021 750ml

Tar and roses with some dried rose stem and strawberries on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied with growing tannins and a chewy finish. Fresh at the end. Drink after 2026. (James Suckling)

This wine plays the role of the classic Barolo release, or the “annata” (vintage) wine if you prefer. With the white label, the Parusso 2019 Barolo Perarmando is dedicated to the man who founded this family-run estate in 1971. Armando’s blend (with fruit from Bussia, Mosconi and Mariondino) shows some of the tighter or more astringent aromas that come from the stems and the skins of the Nebbiolo grape. You also get a lot of the pulpiness too with bold cherry and dried blackberry aromas. Those come on the heels of grilled herb and dark licorice. This is a production of 25,000 bottles annually.

Eucalyptus, juniper, raspberry, cherry and rose hip flavors are allied to a succulent texture in this Barolo. Fruity overall despite its balsamic side and well-balanced, with a moderate grip of tannins on the earthy finish. Best from 2028 through 2043. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.

This red exudes eucalyptus, pine, juniper and toasty oak flavors. The fruit component takes a back seat, yet this feels supple until the firm grip emerges on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2043. 2,040 cases made, 500 cases imported. (Bruce Sanderson)