Paul Jaboulet Aîné Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure 2015 750ml

Opaque ruby. An assertively scented, complex bouquet features mineral-accented boysenberry, cherry liqueur, licorice and smoky mineral aromas that expand with air. Stains the palate with sweet, dense black and blue fruit, spicecake and candied violet flavors that show a surprisingly graceful touch thanks to a spine of juicy acidity. Velvety, slow-mounting tannins shape a broad, smoke-laced finish that hangs on with superb, floral-driven persistence. (Josh Raynolds)

Brooding, concentrated and tannic, the 2015 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure will need some time to come out of its granite shell. Crushed stone and dark cherries and cassis emerge only reticently on the nose. For easier near-term drinking, grab some of the Thalabert; for serious longevity in the cellar, the Domaine de Roure will be hard to beat.

This is all about the granite slopes of Le Blanc up behind Gervas. It has a wild cherry and raspberry nose with dark plums, too, as well as attractive pepper and exotic spices. The palate has a powerful cage of tannins holding dark plum fruits bright and long. This is great Crozes and needs time. Best from 2020 and for a decade at least.