Paul Jaboulet Aîné Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 2009 1.5L

As I wrote last year, the 2009 Hermitage La Chapelle is easily the greatest, most profound La Chapelle since the 1990. Most of this cuvee comes from Le Meal and Les Bessards vineyards, with a touch of Les Roucoules fruit in the blend. It is an opaque purple-colored wine with enormous concentration in addition to an extraordinary bouquet of graphite, creme de cassis, blackberries, licorice, beef blood and a touch of smoked game. Boasting phenomenal intensity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and 50 years of longevity, the only thing that could possibly hold it back is that most consumers should plan on laying it away for 8–10 years. (Robert M. Parker, Jr.)

This is packed and well-rendered, with notes of fig, boysenberry confiture and ganache at the core and powerful structure pushing from behind. Shows plenty of roasted tobacco and vanilla bean on the slightly stolid finish, but there’s a density and brooding length here that sets it apart form the pack. Best from 2017 through 2032. 250 cases imported. (James Molesworth)