Produttori del Barbaresco Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello Riserva Barbaresco 2017 750ml

The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a heady, explosive wine. I don’t think I have ever tasted an Ovello from the Produttori with this much heft. The strong mineral and saline accents typical of this site are present, but they are matched pound for pound by notable mid-palate richness and intensity in its fruit. The 2017 is a brooding powerhouse that needs time to unwind. (Antonio Galloni)

Taut and sinewy, boasting cherry, black currant, grass, iron and tar notes. Powerful tannins drive the finish, which is compact for now. In the end, this is lightly astringent, but has plenty of drive and should find equilibrium with time. Best from 2026 through 2043. 1,580 cases made, 350 cases imported. (Bruce Sanderson)

One of the bigger productions (with 17,744 bottles) in the Produttori del Barbaresco’s portfolio is the 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello. All of the Riservas in this vintage are characterized by especially exuberant and bold aromas, and this bottle is a prime example. Cassis, wild cherry, tobacco, rusty nail and licorice build intensity. The wine is tapered and silky in texture, but it also offers a good amount of power (and 15% alcohol) to carry it through the aging process.

The Produttori del Barbaresco 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a tighter wine with more elegant mineral definition compared to the 2020 vintage that I tasted at the same time. However, this wine is not as accessible and remains a little shy or closed at this young stage in its life. The tannins are well managed in this edition that naturally delivers more richness and concentration. It needs a little more time to shed that nervous tension.

Round and supple, this red features cherry, raspberry, rose, iron and menthol flavors. Though well-structured, this finishes with a flourish of red fruit and energy. All the elements are there, so give this a few years to integrate. Best from 2027 through 2045. 7,500 cases made, 4,800 cases imported.

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classic Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.