Quinta do Noval Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port 2003 750ml

The 2017 Vintage Port Nacional is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz, aged for 18 months in old wood. It comes in at 99 grams of residual sugar and was bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in wooden vats. In 2016, I might’ve made an argument that the regular Noval was better. In this vintage, this seems to be a clear choice, granting that Ports change constantly in their youth. Its siblings at all levels in the last few vintages are very fine, but this is an indisputable benchmark that seems to better them all. Rich and vibrant, this has plenty of stuffing and flavor, more than the regular Noval. Then, it adds layer after layer of power. A couple of hours of air makes both the flavors and tannins more intense. It is simply gripping—yet also remarkably fresh. It’s a great Noval, and one of the shortlist candidates for “Wine of the Vintage.” There were 200 cases produced. (Mark Squires)

This is very primary with lots of blackberries, blueberries, and bark. Medium to full body. Medium tannins and a long, linear finish with tight and very fine tannins that last for minutes. Chewy and balanced. Give this eight to 10 years or after 2030. (James Suckling)

Fantastic aromas of blackberries, licorice and cherries follow through to a full-bodied palate, with well-integrated tannins and a long finish. A classy young Port. Could be a remake of the 1947. Best after 2015.

Exotic, with a flash of mint giving way quickly to vivid blueberry paste, açaí berry reduction and blackberry pâte de fruit notes that are still quite youthful in profile. Shows both silky and brambly elements, as well as muscle and finesse as this extends with salted licorice, dark chocolate, cinnamon and alder accents through the mineral-tinged finish, where the minty note returns as a seductive echo. Unique and gorgeous. Best from 2025 through 2050. 240 cases made, 20 cases imported. (James Molesworth)

The Quinta do Noval Nacional 2003 is more backward on the nose than the Vintage Noval ’03, with perfumed black plum, incense, lavender and spice. The aromatics here are pure and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins matched by a killer line of acidity that comes wholly unexpected given the growing season. Thus, it is extremely focused and vigorous, with superb precision and tension. This is a modern-day legend in the making, superior to the 2000 and 1997. Drink 2018–2045. Tasted January 2014.

The dense 2003 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port displays an impenetrable black robe. Its profound aromatics exude notes of Damson plums, blackberries, fresh herbs, flowers, and hints of vanilla. Built for the long-haul, this refined wine reveals massive thickness, concentration, and depth. Its plummy character is redolent with black cherries, violets, pepper, and figs. Even after 4 days of air this intense effort was firmly backward (possibly even more so than immediately after opening!). Projected maturity: 2035–2055.