Bodega R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia R. López de Heredia Viña Cubillo 2016 750ml

The 2016 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza was surprising, spectacular, elegant, clean and fresh like few vintages before. It was a superb year, with quality, quantity and freshness. It’s quite the opposite from the previous 2015, which was a much warmer and riper year. The 2016s have moderate alcohol and especially the perception of less ripeness (even though the alcohol is very similar). It feels very young, still quite primary. Mercedes explained, “Cubillas, a 24-hectare plot, is a vineyard that could produce Gran Reserva wines. It’s a very good vineyard, but we would miss the Crianza in our range”. In fact, the comment was that this vintage is even a challenge for the Viña Tondonia red “because of its price.” It is indeed a bargain. “But it doesn’t have the finesse of Tondonia,” concluded María José. Anyway, it’s super tasty. 92,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022. (Luis Gutiérrez)

The 2016 Crianza Viña Cubillo, from Haro in Rioja Alta, underwent a three-year aging process in used oak barrels. Garnet in color, the wine reveals enticing notes of cherry marmalade, complemented by herbal, mint-like hints. Dry, intense and fairly grippy, the 2016 also features a mild chalky texture. Firm and juicy with a vibrant core, it presents itself as a flavorful red in its primary state. I anticipate that further bottle-aging will unlock deeper complexities, and I look forward to revisiting it in the years to come. (Joaquín Hidalgo)

The red 2018 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza is pretty and attractive, fresh and aromatic, floral, the result of a challenging year with lots of rain and high humidity. This is usually the last vineyard to be harvested, and the grapes were picked late, the 26th of October. It's a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo that matured in a combination of oak vats and well-seasoned American oak barrels for six years. It's elegant and clean, young and undeveloped, with very fine tannins and a sleek, polished mouthfeel. It has 13.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.0 and 6.5 grams of acidity. This could be the finest Cubillo in recent times, and it's a bargain.

The super bargain of the portfolio has to be the red 2017 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza, which this year shows more development and faster aging, with more tertiary notes than the other reds from 2013 and 2014 that I tasted next to it. The frost of April 2017 killed 100% of the vegetal mass at Cubillo, and the grapes they picked were exclusively from the second generation, therefore fruit that ripened in a much shorter cycle, as the harvest was also earlier. It has notes of damp earth, mushrooms, truffles and forest floor, dry leaves and decayed flowers and herbs. It has a polished palate and is medium-bodied, with mostly resolved tannins, and it feels a little lighter. But it's still worth it. It was produced with a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo from vines averaging 53 years of age. It fermented in their old oak vats and matured in used American oak barrels for three+ years. It has 13.5% alcohol, a 3.0 pH and 6.5 grams of acidity. 90,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2023.

The 2017 Viña Cubillo combines 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo from Rioja Alta. This aged for three years in American oak barrels. Offering vinous aromas, gentle oak and dark fruit with herbal notes, the frost-hit vintage provided lighter fruit and greener flavors. Smooth, juicy and slightly chalky, it nonetheless retains the fine-boned elegance of the Cubillo style.

Leather, tar and spice box aromas offer a fragrant overtone for this fresh, medium-bodied red. Fine, taut tannins sculpt flavors of dried cherry and cranberry, singed orange peel and cured tobacco. Silky on the palate, this opens nicely in the glass. Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2029. 7,500 cases made, 5,000 cases imported. (Alison Napjus)