Bodega R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia R. López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Crianza 2017 750ml

2016 was a superb vintage in Rioja, and the 2016 Viña Gravonia Blanco, which has the cellar aroma that all the wines, especially the whites, have, due to the longer time the wines spend in barrel. The white vines in this vineyard are now 92 years old and their juice was fermented in old oak vats with indigenous yeasts. They explained, "We have never used selected yeasts." It was matured in their well-seasoned American oak barrels for four years. It's paler than any of the other whites, and it has a little less pungency, with very good freshness. It's elegant, subtle, clean and ethereal. They had good yields and a good climatic year. 42,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022. I give these wines a conservative drinking window, but they will probably last much longer. (Luis Gutiérrez)

 The nose of the 2017 Viña Gravonia Blanco is unmistakably López de Heredia, with those mushroom, white pepper and pollen aromas that remind you so much of the smell in their ancient caves. 2017 was the year of the big frost in April and the scarcity of rain that made it the earliest, scarcest and quickest harvest they have experienced in their recent history. The grapes for this wine were the first grapes picked, the 14th of September, from vines aged 93 years. It fermented in even older oak vats with indigenous yeasts ("We have never added yeasts to our wines," they answer when asked) and matured in used American oak barrels for four years (possibly more looking at the bottling date). Of course, this could qualify as a Gran Reserva, but they keep it at Crianza (to have a range), and it's sold at a bargain price for its quality and age. It's characterful and nuanced, with some hints of development (diesel) and a lightish palate with pungent flavors and great harmony. It has the usual parameters: 12.5% alcohol, a pH of three and seven grams of acidity. 20,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2023.

Whites from López de Heredia are legendary, and Viña Gravonia rightfully earns its place in the pantheon. The 2016 Blanco Crianza Viña Gravonia, 100% Viura sourced from the Gravonia vineyard in Rioja Alta, underwent four years of aging in old foudres followed by an additional four years in bottle. This yellow wine with a subtle golden sheen features aromas of peach and fennel, accompanied by a floral tea note and a delicate layer of oak. Dry and refreshing, it possesses a bold texture. This flavorful white lingers on the palate with a hazelnut tone. (Joaquín Hidalgo)

The 2017 Viña Gravonia is 100% Viura from Haro in Rioja. This aged for four years in old American oak foudres followed by four years in bottle. Due to the severe frost of 2017, it was made mostly from second-flowering fruit. Medium yellow in hue, it delivers notes of resin, gentle oak and hints of herbs and fennel. Saline and medium-bodied on the tongue before a finish of hay and dried orange peel, this is a unique white with a savory, lightly oxidative profile.<br/><br/>