Tenuta delle Terre Nere Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso 20° Anniversario 2022 750ml

The 2022 Etra Rosso Calderara Sottana is intense and spicy in the glass. Crushed ashen stores and grilled herbs give way to dried black cherries and spiced orange peels. Luxuriously smooth up front, this finds a lovely lift through a core of tantalizing acidity as saline minerals and the onset of grippy tannins firm up its ripe wild berry fruits. This tapers off with tremendous length and concentration, leaving a youthfully structured feel and a pleasantly tart sensation that lingers on and on. The 2022 mixes generosity with power in a beautifully balanced package that will promote over a decade of cellaring.

Here's a special 20th anniversary bottle from Tenuta delle Terre Nere, among the first and certainly the most prolific of the Etna wine pioneers. Made with 100% Nerello Mascalese, the 2022 Etna Rosso 20 Anniversario is a mix of fruit mostly from the Contrada Calderara Sottana at 650 meters in elevation. This expression is not too far off from the estate's classic Etna Rosso, although this bottle clearly offers more in the way of oomph and spice. You feel it on the long, polished mouthfeel with dark fruit, vanilla and dried currant. Production is 35,000 bottles. (Monica Larner)

High-toned and floral on the nose, this is well-spiced on the palate, with ground cardamom, clove and sandalwood accents lacing the macerated cherry and raspberry fruit, dried thyme and blood orange peel flavors. Elegant and finely knit, with a raw silk–like, textured feel to the limber tannins and good length through the persistent finish. Drink now through 2035. 3,888 cases made, 1,250 cases imported.