Volpaia Volpaia Coltassala 2018 750ml

Transparent and linear with currant and cherry aromas and flavors. It’s beautifully fine and bright with crushed cherries and berries and hints of strawberries. Pine needles and fresh herbs, too. Very silky tannins and a palate that shows poise and polish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Coltassala is striking. Rich and ample, with tremendous depth, the 2017 shows all of the mystique that makes Sangiovese so alluring. Sweet dark cherry, dark plum, leather, licorice, menthol and tobacco build as the 2017 shows off its breadth and personality. The Coltassala has a bit more volume and oak influence than the other Volpaia wines, but it’s an approach that works so well here. (Antonio Galloni)

A real beauty, the 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Coltassala (made with organic fruit) shows medium-rich textural fiber with plenty of dark fruit, cherry, spice and leather. The important thing to mention here is how light and elegantly fragrant this wine remains despite the considerable heat and dryness of the growing season. In fact, all those fruit tones emerge with terrific purity and focus, backed by acidity and integrated structure, that invite an evening-long sampling with some medium-aged pecorino.

Fresh and focused, delivering black cherry, blackberry and stone flavors, with a structure that borders on racy. This firms up nicely on the lingering finish, which bears tinges of iron and sanguine. Best from 2023 through 2035. 150 cases imported. (Bruce Sanderson)

Aromas of French oak, leather and espresso mingle with whiffs of spiced plum. The firm palate features dried cherry, licorice and tobacco framed in tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. It closes on a note of coffee bean. Drink 2024–2028. (Kerin O’Keefe)

A complex version, this red sports plum, blackberry, leather, earth, camphor and eucalyptus aromas and flavors. Though vivid and incisive with its core of fruit, dusty tannins grip the finish, where an oak spice element lingers. Be patient, here. Best from 2023 through 2042. 1,500 cases made, 375 cases imported. (Bruce Sanderson)