Warre's Warre's Vintage Porto 2017 750ml

Gorgeous, with warm plum reduction and gently steeped raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit flavors forming the core, all inlaid with warm ganache and smoldering tobacco accents. Very plush in feel, but has no lack of energy, as everything sails beautifully through the long finish. A late echo of anise completes the seduction. Best from 2035 through 2055. 3,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported. (James Molesworth)

Loads of wet earth and grape aromas with hints of stems. Old vine aromas of bark and moss. Full-bodied, sweet and structured with a big kick on the end. Very impressive. Exceptional layers of fruit and energy. A stronger and more muscular Warres.

Lush and inviting in feel, with a beautifully creamy texture that lets plum sauce, blueberry reduction and raspberry pâte de fruit flavors glide along effortlessly. Notes of violet, anise and black tea are beguiling in the background before melding seamlessly on the finish. This shimmers with fruit, balanced by depth and spine. Best from 2035 through 2055. 3,600 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.

This is a juicy wine, with dense black fruits that are cut by bright acidity. The tannins give power and long-term aging potential to this impressive wine. Drink from 2028. (Roger Voss)

The 2016 Vintage Port is a 46/37 blend from old vines and Touriga Nacional, with Touriga Franca making up the rest. It was bottled in May 2018 with 113 grams of residual sugar. The fruit on this is gloriously expressive and concentrated. It’s classic and delicious, but it doesn’t show the power and structure of the top wines. Charles Symington called it very elegant. Or, say, understated and approachable. It is pretty delicious, though, and I have to give this some props just because it is. Don’t expect it to be the best ager in the group. There were 4,250 cases produced. (Mark Squires)