WhistlePig Farms WhistlePig Straight Rye Whiskey Aged 10 Years NV 750ml

First, a warning: this is only for those who like their rye big and brawny. It starts off innocuously with a maple-syrup color, and a pretty, complex and subtle scent: honey, vanilla, a sight medicinal tinge and faint clover notes. It feels silky on the tongue and at first, the flavors reflect caramel, burnt orange and a whisper of smoke, but then a mouth-warming wave of tannic bite sweeps over all and lingers for a good long time. Straight up or on the rocks.

This may be the smoothest rye I’ve ever tasted, and it’s 100 proof! Nonetheless, this is powerful, heady stuff with big all-American flavors of vanilla, caramel and lovely orange peel; supple, rich and layered; creamy and beautifully balanced; made in canada and bottled in Vermont. WhistlePig Farm.

Imported from Canada (which suggests that maybe this whiskey was originally intended to be the flavoring component of a Canadian whisky?) and bottled in Vermont. This is a 100% unmalted rye whiskey (much higher than other traditional straight rye whiskeys). Indeed, this whiskey bleeds spices (especially brisk mint, vibrant clove, and teasing nutmeg), but there’s a rich, sweet foundation to balance it all (honeyed vanilla, caramel, butterscotch, and nutty toffee), along with candied citrus and charcoal. Bold, spicy, nutty toffee, butterscotch finish. Very distinctive, and probably a polarizing whiskey.

Regauged into once-used bourbon barrels, this is not the WhistlePig of old. Four years’ finishing in Vermont has toned down the sweetness and high notes, emphasizing a complex, leather/dark chocolate/tobacco spectrum instead. Lavender, violets, and ripe red fruit rise over dusty-dry barn boards, blue clay, and dark rye bread. The spicy rye tones glow with white pepper, while hints of astringent barrel oak keep a slight slipperiness from clinging.

Brilliant maize/sauternes/amontillado color; unblemished clarity. This whisky aroma comes flying out of the glass in the initial whiffs as the spirit engages the olfactory membranes immediately; following seven minutes of aeration, the aroma settles down enough to offer luscious notes of rye bread, oaky vanilla, and light toffee; the type of animated bouquet that I appreciate. Entry is firm, focused on the rye, gently sweet, and caramel-like; midpalate features broadstroke multiple layers of light caramel, cookie dough, brown sugar, oak resin, marshmallow, and honey. Ends on a resiny/sappy note that balances the grainy sweetness. For a first time whiskey effort, even if the master distiller is the gifted David Pickerell, formerly of Maker’s Mark, this is a superb opening act, which will be hard to follow. Sensational whiskey and straight rye at its zesty best.

New microdistillers have a problem: whiskey needs time to age. WhistlePig Straight Rye solves that problem by sourcing ten year old 100% rye whiskey (at 100 proof), and bottling it in limited quantities until WhistlePig Farm distillery’s own whiskey is ready. When a master distiller like Dave Pickerell is doing the tasting and sourcing, that sounds like a good solution.