Luís Seabra Vinhos Xisto Cru Branco 2023 750ml

Rabigato-based white, showing discreet aromas of lime and apple with a stony austerity. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, expressive and tense, with a thread of precisely delineated fruit. Sourced from three old high altitude vineyards in Meda. Delicious already, but will improve with bottle age. Aged in neutral French oak for two winters. Drink or hold.

Sleek and harmonious, this graceful white has good drive and pretty accents of white blossoms and lemon thyme to the ripe nectarine and melon fruit. Reveals a salty, mineral underpinning that gains momentum and lingers on the fresh finish. Rabigato, Côdega, Gouveio and Viosinho. Drink now through 2028. 583 cases made, 150 cases imported. (Alison Napjus)